As I listen to the several postings by paddlers from tropical climes who shed their PFDs because of the heat, I wonder just exactly how hot are they talking about and why they don't take well-known steps to reduce their discomfort that still will leave them with a first defense safety item in place? New York City, while not in the tropics, can rival any other water spot on earth for intense heat (Death Valley I am sure is hotter but does not offer much in the way of paddling opportunities). Temperatures in the high 90s Fahrenheit with humidity in the 80% range are not uncommon. Humid heat is just about as horrible as it can get, but several local factors intensify the feel of the heat here. The concrete, brick and asphalt of the concentration of tall buildings and streets absorb heat and radiate it like a thousand radiators. Our winds are often from the West. How does that affect the amount of heat? Well in several ways: these winds are blowing off of the hotter earth in the interior; moreover, winds from that direction are coming over higher land, and as they drop down to the coast, the hot heavy air compresses and gets a bit warmer as a result. There is nothing like being on the water looking for a cool breeze and finding that when the breeze picks up it seems to be coming from an open furnace door. YET, one can wear a PFD here without falling unconscious with hyperthermia. If one is feeling uncomfortable in a PFD, all it takes are several remedies to cool off. Some ideas that work well (these are both ACA and BCU approved, :-) ): 1. Take the PFD off, soak it in the water and put it back on. You would be surprised how much that cools you down. (I learned this one from some old-timer canoeists.) 2. Take off your hat every half hour or so and soak it in the water and put it back on. Again, a great cooling effect and takes just a second. (Self-taught and the result of a hat blowing off my head and getting soaked). 3. If paddling with others, grab on to the bow of another boat and flip your boat on its side and dunk your head and body into the water. If you can roll, all the better, but the bow assisted cool-down is equally effective. While I mention these remedies the only one I ever really use is the second one, the hat trick. (BTW, while I am partly of Caribbean Latino lineage, I suffer heat badly and seem to take more to my Irish side.) I hope I don't sound doctrinaire or dogmatic, but I'm not convinced that one _has_ to take off his/her PFD because of hot weather. Few places are as hot as here and there are remedies for any heat discomfort short of sheeding your PFD. If you _want_ to take off that PFD, that is another matter. But you don't really _need_ to. happy paddling, ralph diaz -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > 2. Take off your hat every half hour or so and soak it in the water and > put it back on. Again, a great cooling effect and takes just a second. > (Self-taught and the result of a hat blowing off my head and getting > soaked). Anouther favorite of mine is to tie a wet bandana around my neck. That and a wet hat does feel g o o d . James *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Sun, 8 Aug 1999, James Lofton wrote: > > > > 2. Take off your hat every half hour or so and soak it in the water and > > put it back on. Again, a great cooling effect and takes just a second. > > (Self-taught and the result of a hat blowing off my head and getting > > soaked). > > > Anouther favorite of mine is to tie a wet bandana around my neck. That > and a wet hat does feel g o o d . I like that one! Wet hats feel great but then I can't see through my sunglasses after the salt dries on them. I'm going to try the bandanna right away. Thanks! e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Elaine Harmon wrote: > On Sun, 8 Aug 1999, James Lofton wrote: > . > > I like that one! Wet hats feel great but then I can't see through my > sunglasses after the salt dries on them. I'm going to try the bandanna > right away. Thanks! e Yea, I have the same problem and so I carry a bandana in a zipper lock bag that I keep dry or failing dry I wet it with drinking water so I have a hope of seeing where I'm going. I just have to be sure that is cleaned with the rest of my equipment after the paddling is over. Joan *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
James wrote: > Anouther favorite of mine is to tie a wet bandana around my neck. That > and a wet hat does feel g o o d . Then Elaine wrote, >I like that one! Wet hats feel great but then I can't see through my sunglasses after the salt dries on them. I'm >going to try the bandanna right away. Thanks! One thing I do to keep water from beading on my sunglasses is to lick them on both sides, then either swish 'em around in the saltwater a bit or splash a little of my drinking water on 'em. It seems to have the same affect as a product called Rain X used on car windshields. I don't think there is anything special about my saliva, so it should work for you too :-) BTW, in case you didn't know, this is the same thing a lot of divers do to their masks to keep them from fogging. Cheers, Dave Dave Williams paddler_at_loxinfo.co.th http://paddleasia.com Phuket, Thailand *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Mon, 9 Aug 1999, Dave Williams wrote: > One thing I do to keep water from beading on my sunglasses is to lick them > on both sides, then either swish 'em around in the saltwater a bit or splash > a little of my drinking water on 'em. It seems to have the same affect as a > product called Rain X used on car windshields. I don't think there is > anything special about my saliva, so it should work for you too :-) I've tried the spit without much success, but I've been intending to ask -- has anyone put Rain-X on their sunglasses? It shouldn't hurt glass, but I'm wondering about plastic, as most polaroids seem to be. And while we're at those fussy little details, I wear cheap Timex watches that are supposed to be waterproof. They have wee gaskets inside. After you've changed the battery once, they leak a bit and eventually the salt corrodes the terminals. Question: is there a substance (like maybe silicone boot lubricant?) that you can put on those gaskets and around the edge of the crystal, to keep the watch waterproof? It has to stay liquid or it'll glue the gasket to the case and you won't be able to open it again, I guess. And maybe could the same stuff be applied to the outside edges of the outer lenses, and body joints, to make a cheap pair of binoculars waterproof? Thanks, Chris, for the drowning description. I had a dear friend and SO (cave diver) drown a few years back so it wasn't too comfortable to read. But it was a good thing to post. (I'd still rather drown than die the typically long painful death of cancer, which given my genetics is probably what's in store. But I'd a lot rather drown tomorrow than today. No PFD- or wetsuit-free paddles in the Hebrides, believe me!) Slainte -- e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Elaine Harmon wrote: > I've tried the spit without much success, but I've been intending to ask > -- has anyone put Rain-X on their sunglasses? It shouldn't hurt glass, but > I'm wondering about plastic, as most polaroids seem to be. > > And while we're at those fussy little details, I wear cheap Timex watches > that are supposed to be waterproof. They have wee gaskets inside. After > you've changed the battery once, they leak a bit and eventually the salt > corrodes the terminals. Question: is there a substance (like maybe > silicone boot lubricant?) that you can put on those gaskets and around the > edge of the crystal, to keep the watch waterproof? It has to stay liquid > or it'll glue the gasket to the case and you won't be able to open it > again, I guess. And maybe could the same stuff be applied to the outside > edges of the outer lenses, and body joints, to make a cheap pair of > binoculars waterproof? > > Last winter we used rain-x on the face shields of our snowmobile helmets with no ill effects, so I doubt that it would hurt the plastic on sunglasses. You actually change the batteries on your cheap timex watches?!? Wow, I usually have beat them up so bad by then that I just replace them. Mike -- Paddling along through fog so thick that only one's thoughts are visible, your reverie is abruptly shattered by the ancient cry of a great blue heron as she lifts uncertainly from the brilliant blue of a mussel-shell beach witnessed only by the brooding, wet spruce....your passage home seems as much back through time as it does through space. Mark H Hunt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dave Williams wrote: > > Elaine wrote, > > [snip] I can't see through my > sunglasses after the salt dries on them. I'm >going to try the bandanna > right away. Thanks! > > One thing I do to keep water from beading on my sunglasses is to lick them > on both sides, then either swish 'em around in the saltwater a bit or splash > a little of my drinking water on 'em. It seems to have the same affect as a > product called Rain X used on car windshields. I don't think there is > anything special about my saliva, so it should work for you too :-) Rain X wears off -- and as others have mentioned, it may injure/inactivate any anti-glare coating on your glasses. A safer alternative is a small pad of chamois in a plastic bag in a PFD pocket. Been using one of these the last 6 months, and it totally absorbs salt water, sun cream, sweat, saliva, etc. BTW, saliva leaves a smeary mess, in my experience. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dave Williams wrote; It seems to have the same affect as a >product called Rain X used on car windshields. I don't think there is >anything special about my saliva, so it should work for you too :-) Rain X works great on my eye glasses, even with the salt. Nutting's perfect but the Rain X minimize the spots on the lens. My bandana is soaked in water then draped over head and shoulders under my hat. The water that is scooped up in my hat takes a little while before it all escapes on the back of my neck and face. round de New Orleans area, heat index has been over 110 degrees for the past three weeks. "Just gotta listen to your body" Arthur *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I always wear my PFD in Florida unless I am on a shallow river, like the Loxahatchee. I suspect that the foam may even serve to insulate me FROM the sun. I also use a skirt with a breathable tunnel and a neoprene deck. BTW, some of the smaller FL mosquitoes can't bite through the PFD. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Mon, 9 Aug 1999, Michael R Noyes wrote: > > Last winter we used rain-x on the face shields of our snowmobile > helmets with no ill effects, so I doubt that it would hurt the plastic > on sunglasses. You actually change the batteries on your cheap timex > watches?!? Wow, I usually have beat them up so bad by then that I > just replace them. > > Mike i have only had one "waterproof" watch outlast it's batteries... the box says "4-5 year battery life" but you have no idea how long it's been running in its display box!! i too have usually beat the snot out of my watch long before the battery dies ... and i keep buying them. the casio g-shock series... about $50 good for 4 years, at $12.50/yr or $1/month, they're cheap enopugh to keep replacing!! mark #------canoeist[at]netbox[dot]com----http://www.diac.com/~zen/mark ---- # mark zen o, o__ o_/| o_. po box 474 </ [\/ [_| [_\ ft. lupton, co 80621-0474 (`-/-------/----') (`----|-------\-') #~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_at_~~~~~~~_at_~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~_at_~~~~~~~~_at_~~~~~ http://www.diac.com/~zen/paddler [index to club websites i administer] Rocky Mtn Sea Kayak Club, Colorado River Flows, Poudre Paddlers The Colorado Paddlers' Resource, Rocky Mtn Canoe Club Trip Page -- Fortune: Why can we remember the tiniest detail that has happened to us, and not remember how many times we have told it to the same person? ---Francois De La Rochefouauld *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 8/9/99 7:09:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, seacajun_at_gs.net writes: << Rain X works great on my eye glasses, even with the salt. >> OK, seacajun, I'll try this. Where does one buy Rain X? Sandy Kramer *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>Last winter we used rain-x on the face shields of our snowmobile helmets >with no >ill effects, so I doubt that it would hurt the plastic on sunglasses. >Mike Whether Rain-X affects the actual lens material may not be the only issue here; the lenses of better quality sunglasses, whether plastic or glass, usually have anti-reflective coatings. So even if your sunglasses are not melted, you may be stripping off some of these coatings, and thereby reducing the performance of the glasses. Philip Torrens N49°16' W123°06' *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Philip Torrens wrote: > >Last winter we used rain-x on the face shields of our snowmobile helmets > >with no > >ill effects, so I doubt that it would hurt the plastic on sunglasses. > > >Mike > > Whether Rain-X affects the actual lens material may not be the only issue > here; the lenses of better quality sunglasses, whether plastic or glass, > usually have anti-reflective coatings. So even if your sunglasses are not > melted, you may be stripping off some of these coatings, and thereby > reducing the performance of the glasses. The only caveat I'd mention is that many plastic lenses are made of polycarbonate (one brand name is Lexan) and therefore is affected by alcohol. Having used alcohol for cleaning glass optics for years, I casually ruined (over a few months) a good pair of glasses made of polycarbonate. The pattern from the grinding of the lens shows. So... check whether the Rain-x or other cleaner or anti fog agent contains alcohol. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Another good option: ziplock bag with a paper towel saturated with Windex or other glass cleaner inside. It lasts for many trips. I just keep it in my PFD pocket. Works great! Susan -----Original Message----- From: Joan Spinner <JSpinner_at_agu.org> Cc: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net> Date: Monday, August 09, 1999 9:46 AM Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] wearing PFDs in hot weather >Elaine Harmon wrote: > >> On Sun, 8 Aug 1999, James Lofton wrote: >> . >> >> I like that one! Wet hats feel great but then I can't see through my >> sunglasses after the salt dries on them. I'm going to try the bandanna >> right away. Thanks! e > >Yea, I have the same problem and so I carry a bandana in a zipper lock bag that >I keep dry or failing dry I wet it with drinking water so I have a hope of >seeing where I'm going. I just have to be sure that is cleaned with the rest of >my equipment after the paddling is over. > >Joan > >*************************************************************************** >PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List >Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net >Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net >Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ >*************************************************************************** > *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>In a message dated 8/9/99 7:09:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, seacajun_at_gs.net >writes: > ><< Rain X works great on my eye glasses, even with the salt. >> > >OK, seacajun, I'll try this. Where does one buy Rain X? > >Sandy Kramer Sandy, I purchased some at a auto parts store. A 12oz bottle purchased bout five years ago, still half full. Of course it does not take much for eye glasses. Arthur *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 06:53 AM 08/09/1999 -0400, Elaine Harmon wrote: >And while we're at those fussy little details, I wear cheap Timex watches >that are supposed to be waterproof. They have wee gaskets inside. After >you've changed the battery once, they leak a bit and eventually the salt >corrodes the terminals. Question: is there a substance (like maybe >silicone boot lubricant?) that you can put on those gaskets and around the >edge of the crystal, to keep the watch waterproof? It has to stay liquid >or it'll glue the gasket to the case and you won't be able to open it >again, I guess. And maybe could the same stuff be applied to the outside >edges of the outer lenses, and body joints, to make a cheap pair of >binoculars waterproof? Hi all! A silicone based grease (eg. Dow Corning high vacuum grease) is perfect, but may be tough to find. Try a bearing supply warehouse. Petroleum jelly or even generic automotive grease will also work, but even the "waterproof" petroleum based greases will wash away after a few exposures so you will have to re-apply occasionally. The silicone based greases are nearly inert, and will last a long time. They're excellent for lubricating pump seals and O rings too, and are suitable for drinking water filtration applications. Hope this helps. ByeBye! S. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Tue, 10 Aug 1999, Steve Jernigan wrote: > Hi all! > A silicone based grease (eg. Dow Corning high vacuum grease) is perfect, > but may be tough to find. Try a bearing supply warehouse. Interesting. Any other sources? I presume it wouldn't do for sealing binocular joints as the stuff would eventually spread over all surfaces in a fine layer, although maybe that wouldn't matter. One could use something that hardens for this application, though; ideas, anyone? e (who is always looking for ways to do things cheap) Oh, this news may help someone: I had bought a Werner graphite paddle in 210 cm. length, thinking that's what I'd need for the Brit boats. Now, after reading Ralph's wonderful (!) book on foldables, I'm starting to think K1 or something. But what of the short paddle? Well, I just spoke with the company. Turns out they make extensions of 20 or 30 cm.; you just send the paddle and they fit it for you, $45 for the 20 cm. one, plus shipping. Nice to know if you paddle different boats! e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Elaine Harmon wrote: > > e (who is always looking for ways to do things cheap) > > Oh, this news may help someone: I had bought a Werner graphite paddle in > 210 cm. length, thinking that's what I'd need for the Brit boats. Now, > after reading Ralph's wonderful (!) book on foldables, I'm starting to > think K1 or something. But what of the short paddle? Well, I just spoke > with the company. Turns out they make extensions of 20 or 30 cm.; you just > send the paddle and they fit it for you, $45 for the 20 cm. one, plus > shipping. Nice to know if you paddle different boats! e I have been chastized (mildly) regarding paddle length by several gurus who I respect. As a result I have rethought some of my length recommendations that appeared in the book. Ken Fink swears you could paddle a double Klepper using a 220 cm or less paddle rather than the 250 cm or so I recommended. I know that Larry Edwards of Bairdarka Boats in Sitka (a good source for folding kayaks and related gear, albeit he is in the process of selling the business) also recommends shortish paddle lengths (he suggests you go for a shorter paddle and if it doesn't work out, send it back and go up 5 cms). So my suggestion were you to go with a Feathercraft K-1 or the K-Light (both in the 25 inch beam range), is to see if your 210 cm paddle will work. I know a 215 to 220 cm works on them. The 210 might do and would give you the advantage of being able to sustain a faster cadence and to bring the blade closer to the boat, which should help tracking. My only recommendtion is that you think about putting some reflector tape on the non-power face side of the Werner blades. Unless Werner has changed the back side of its blade are black and it would be worth brightening them up a bit for visibility sake. Regarding the exclamation point in referring to my book is it that you are surprised that it is "wonderful" or just exclaiming :-) ? ralph diaz -- ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024 Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com "Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag." ----------------------------------------------------------------------- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Tue, 10 Aug 1999 rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com wrote: > So my suggestion were you to go with a Feathercraft K-1 or the K-Light > (both in the 25 inch beam range), is to see if your 210 cm paddle will > work. I know a 215 to 220 cm works on them. The 210 might do and would > give you the advantage of being able to sustain a faster cadence and to > bring the blade closer to the boat, which should help tracking. Hey, I'm not a fast-cadence paddler by nature though I've been paddling pretty high-angle by necessity with the Prism. I'd get a 10 cm. extension but they don't make them that short. I thought the tracking on those boats was supposed to be pretty good, anyway (?) Could a K-light possibly do me even in rough seas? If so, the ideal boat, but I've been assuming not. > My only recommendtion is that you think about putting some reflector > tape on the non-power face side of the Werner blades. Unless Werner has > changed the back side of its blade are black and it would be worth > brightening them up a bit for visibility sake. Will do, and thanks! 'Course, it makes 'em heavier, but doubtless worth it. > Regarding the exclamation point in referring to my book is it that you > are surprised that it is "wonderful" or just exclaiming :-) ? The "!" is meant to convert "wonderful" into WONDERFUL! That means I love your book. Slainte! e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>From: Elaine Harmon <eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu> > > A silicone based grease (eg. Dow Corning high vacuum grease) is perfect, >I presume it wouldn't do for sealing binocular joints as the stuff would >eventually spread over all surfaces in a fine layer, although maybe that > >wouldn't matter. Speaking from experience, it might. If you ever drop even "waterproof" binos in the sand, the grease applied at the factory can pick up enough grit to rapidly freeze the focusing mechanism. (incidentally, when this happened to me, I returned them to the maker, fully expecting to pay for repairs, as it was "user malfunction", not a defective product. Instead, they sent me back, at no charge, a brand-new cosmetically "second" (some splotched paint on the logo) but fully- functional replacement pair. Thanks Bausch & Lomb.) One could use something that hardens for this >application, though; ideas, anyone? > >e (who is always looking for ways to do things cheap) My usual suggestion for sealing almost everything is Aqua Seal as found in most dive shops, which hardens about like bathtub silicone bead. However, the focusing mechaism is a moving part, so I don't think Aqua Seal would work for that. Philip Torrens N49°16' W123°06' *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Didn't think about the focusing mechanism. I found the Dow Corning high-vacuum grease at a lab/scientific supplier. It's $20 for a little tube, but may be worth it. Still investigating. e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Elaine Harmon wrote: > I presume it wouldn't do for sealing binocular joints as the stuff would > eventually spread over all surfaces in a fine layer, although maybe that > wouldn't matter. It would. Any amount of heat will tend to make most gel-like sealants run. Anything on the lenses will destroy the image and, if inside, be almost impossible to get off. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Try a Radio Shack store or such. It is used to keep out mosture on cable conections and such. James Steve Jernigan wrote: > > At 06:53 AM 08/09/1999 -0400, Elaine Harmon wrote: > > >And while we're at those fussy little details, I wear cheap Timex watches > >that are supposed to be waterproof. They have wee gaskets inside. After > >you've changed the battery once, they leak a bit and eventually the salt > >corrodes the terminals. Question: is there a substance (like maybe > >silicone boot lubricant?) that you can put on those gaskets and around the > >edge of the crystal, to keep the watch waterproof? It has to stay liquid > >or it'll glue the gasket to the case and you won't be able to open it > >again, I guess. And maybe could the same stuff be applied to the outside > >edges of the outer lenses, and body joints, to make a cheap pair of > >binoculars waterproof? > > Hi all! > A silicone based grease (eg. Dow Corning high vacuum grease) is perfect, > but may be tough to find. Try a bearing supply warehouse. Petroleum jelly > or even generic automotive grease will also work, but even the "waterproof" > petroleum based greases will wash away after a few exposures so you will > have to re-apply occasionally. The silicone based greases are nearly inert, > and will last a long time. They're excellent for lubricating pump seals and > O rings too, and are suitable for drinking water filtration applications. > Hope this helps. > ByeBye! S. > *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I believe there is a warning on the bottle warning about using it on painted surfaces and plastics. -----Original Message----- From: owner-paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net [mailto:owner-paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net] On Behalf Of Michael Daly Sent: Monday, August 09, 1999 10:08 PM Cc: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] wearing PFDs in hot weather Philip Torrens wrote: > >Last winter we used rain-x on the face shields of our snowmobile helmets > >with no > >ill effects, so I doubt that it would hurt the plastic on sunglasses. > > >Mike > > Whether Rain-X affects the actual lens material may not be the only issue > here; the lenses of better quality sunglasses, whether plastic or glass, > usually have anti-reflective coatings. So even if your sunglasses are not > melted, you may be stripping off some of these coatings, and thereby > reducing the performance of the glasses. The only caveat I'd mention is that many plastic lenses are made of polycarbonate (one brand name is Lexan) and therefore is affected by alcohol. Having used alcohol for cleaning glass optics for years, I casually ruined (over a few months) a good pair of glasses made of polycarbonate. The pattern from the grinding of the lens shows. So... check whether the Rain-x or other cleaner or anti fog agent contains alcohol. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I don't wear my PFD in the bath. I seldom wear my PFD in the pool. I may or may not wear my PFD at the local pond. I always wear my PFD in cold water or cold air or rough water. It is a risk based continuum, in which I balance comfort against safety. If one were to take all paddling fatalities in the last few years, subtract those that involved alcohol, collisions with motorized craft, cold water, cold air, moving water, rough water or surf, I expect that you would come up with a very short list. Then take this list and shorten it further by eliminating those who would not have survived despite wearing a PFD. The resulting list would be so short, in fact, that for a skilled paddler the difference in risk between paddling in benign conditions with PFD handy rather actually in use would be trivial. The problem with my approach is that it does not cover the majority of paddlers who are neither skilled nor knowledgeable and thus may not be able to make a sound risk assessment. To keep them reasonably safe while they develop as paddlers, it is very useful to get them into the habit of always wearing a PFD. This is done formally by promoting an "Always wear your PFD" rule during instruction and trips, and also informally by simply being seen to be wearing a PFD while paddling in public. Perhaps a skilled paddler would not significantly benefit from wearing a PFD in benign conditions, but by doing so and setting an example, unskilled paddlers who would benefit from wearing a PFD at all times will be encouraged to do so. Thus I find myself in the seemingly odd position of usually wearing my PFD when in public, but not wearing it when in benign conditions in the middle of nowhere. Cheers, Richard Culpeper NEW ADDRESS culpeper_at_tbaytel.net www.tbaytel.net/culpeper *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Silicone grease is available at all scuba stores. I use it for "moustache wax" while scuba diving. Improves the seal. Do not use petroleum anything on plastic or rubber! Be advised that not all silicone grease is food grade. As for waterproofing binoculars, the problem is the vacuum created by the change in temperatures. It might suck grease onto the lenses. cya -----Original Message----- From: owner-paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net [mailto:owner-paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net] On Behalf Of Steve Jernigan Sent: Tuesday, August 10, 1999 11:12 AM To: Elaine Harmon; Dave Williams Cc: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subject: RE: [Paddlewise] wearing PFDs in hot weather At 06:53 AM 08/09/1999 -0400, Elaine Harmon wrote: >And while we're at those fussy little details, I wear cheap Timex watches >that are supposed to be waterproof. They have wee gaskets inside. After >you've changed the battery once, they leak a bit and eventually the salt >corrodes the terminals. Question: is there a substance (like maybe >silicone boot lubricant?) that you can put on those gaskets and around the >edge of the crystal, to keep the watch waterproof? It has to stay liquid >or it'll glue the gasket to the case and you won't be able to open it >again, I guess. And maybe could the same stuff be applied to the outside >edges of the outer lenses, and body joints, to make a cheap pair of >binoculars waterproof? Hi all! A silicone based grease (eg. Dow Corning high vacuum grease) is perfect, but may be tough to find. Try a bearing supply warehouse. Petroleum jelly or even generic automotive grease will also work, but even the "waterproof" petroleum based greases will wash away after a few exposures so you will have to re-apply occasionally. The silicone based greases are nearly inert, and will last a long time. They're excellent for lubricating pump seals and O rings too, and are suitable for drinking water filtration applications. Hope this helps. ByeBye! S. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 02:52 PM 08/10/1999 -0400, Bob Denton wrote: > Do not use petroleum anything on >plastic or rubber! Definitely a no-no on latex, and probably not too good for any other "natural" rubber. There are a whole spectrum of synthetic rubber compounds out there, most of which are not going to be greatly troubled by a little KY jelly or even clean automotive grease. The gaskets and O rings in Elaines watch are most likely a Buna N synthetic rubber as it is one of the least expensive, hence most commonly used O ring materials. Buna N gets along just fine with petroleum grease. Obviously, a great deal depends on the specific plastic, but right offhand I can't think of any commonly used thermoplastic material that would be particularly offended by petroleum jelly. When in doubt, try a dab on an unexposed corner. >Be advised that not all silicone grease is food grade. True enough. To have the FDA certify something as "food grade" requires a lengthy and exhaustive (read expen$ive) battery of tests, which the manufacturer is unlikely to perform on a product destined to lubricate an O ring or whatever. As a whole however, silicone compounds are inert, insoluble in water, and relatively non-toxic. Even so, check the label for dire warnings before using it in your water filter. I mentioned the Dow Corning DC976 High Vacuum grease because it is fairly inexpensive, and because I have used it for many years for many different applications, including the O ring in the pump of my water filter. Ain't dead yet, but your mileage may vary. If anyone wants a source for this (IMHO) fine product, try the Kurt J. Lesker Co. 1-800-245-1656, www.lesker.com. Their catalog number is DC976VF, cost is $11.30 (may be a bit more, my catalog is a couple years old . . .) for a 5.3oz tube that ought to last a long time unless ya gots a real bushy moustache. ByeBye! S. Oh, PS: Common silicone sealant, or RTV gives off acetic acid during the cure (the sharp odor you gagged at the last time you used it. Remember?) that can and will corrode some metals, particularly bare aluminum. Use with due discretion. Somewhere there exists a silicone sealant that doesn't give off acetic acid, but alas, I can't remember any details. I'd appreciate a fill from anyone familiar with such a product. TIA! S. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Tue, 10 Aug 1999, Bob Denton wrote: > Silicone grease is available at all scuba stores. I use it for "moustache > wax" while scuba diving. Improves the seal. You mean you put it on his whiskers? I'd think he's just fine without it. e Elaine Harmon - eilidh_at_dc.seflin.org - eharmon_at_cs.miami.edu *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:01 PDT