Not too long ago someone suggested a cheap glue to use when outfitting a kayak with minicell - rather than using the name brand stuff. Of course I didn't save the post. Anyone remember what that was? *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Duane Strosaker wrote (on 16 Jan) about not bothering to use the Perception adhesive and to just use contact cement - I believe that he mentioned the brand name "Weldwood". I think that's probably the post that you're recalling. I've used contact cement successfully also, but can't comment on long-term results. I figure it won't fail catastrophically and if something starts working loose I'll just glue it back in. The contact cement I used didn't have any effect on the foam that I used (test a small piece first!). Dave Seng Juneau, Alaska > -----Original Message----- > From: Joe Brzoza [mailto:joebr_at_burton.com] > Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 2:34 PM > To: PaddleWise (E-mail) > Subject: [Paddlewise] minicell glue > > > Not too long ago someone suggested a cheap glue to use when > outfitting a > kayak with minicell - rather than using the name brand stuff. > Of course I > didn't save the post. > > Anyone remember what that was? > > > ************************************************************** > ************* > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the > author and not > to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > ************************************************************** > ************* > *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Fri, 28 Jan 2000, David Seng wrote: > Duane Strosaker wrote (on 16 Jan) about not bothering to use the Perception > adhesive and to just use contact cement - I believe that he mentioned the > brand name "Weldwood". > > I've used contact cement successfully also, but can't comment on long-term > results. I can't either really. The hip pads I stuck in my Sea Lion with Weldwood have only been in there for about 2.5 years. They did peel off once, but it was the minicell that parted, not the adhesive. However, in 10 years of using the stuff, I can't think of any time something stuck down with it came up. Steve Cramer Test Scoring & Reporting Services Sometimes you never can University of Georgia always tell what you Athens, GA 30602-5593 least expect the most. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Joe wrote, "not too long ago someone suggested a cheap glue to use when outfitting a kayak with minicell - rather than using the name brand stuff. Of course I didn't save the post." "Anyone remember what that was?" Most hardware store contact cements will work, Joe. The CLC folks recommend the stuff you can get at a Napa or other serious automotive supply house --- especially the contact cement that they sell for installing or repairing weather stripping. Apparently they're all similar enough to be interchangeable for our kayaking applications. Jack Martin *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
The stuff I've used is called Hydrogrip. It is a strong contact cement. Joe Brzoza wrote: > Not too long ago someone suggested a cheap glue to use when outfitting a > kayak with minicell - rather than using the name brand stuff. Of course I > didn't save the post. > > Anyone remember what that was? > > *************************************************************************** > PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not > to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission > Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net > Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net > Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ > *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Jack wrote: > Most hardware store contact cements will work, Joe. > The CLC folks recommend the stuff you can get at a Napa or > other serious automotive supply house --- especially the contact > cement that they sell for installing or repairing weather stripping. > Apparently they're all similar enough to be interchangeable for > our kayaking applications. > DON'T buy a water-based contact cement. In an attempt to be more environmentally sound, I purchased a water-based product from Sears to glue kneepads in a solo open boat that we bought for my wife. The water based contact cement just doesn't stick! (it stuck OK to the foam, but peeled up from the inside of the FG canoe, and the two layers also didn't stick together) I've used Weldwood contact cement for many years, and am pleased with its performance. Work with it outside if you can, as it is a solvent-based product. When gluing foam pads (especially) or minicell (to a lesser degree), apply more than 2 coats of the cement before assembling whatever it is you are gluing. The first one or two coats of the contact cement on a foamed product have a tendency to soak into the voids in the foamed product. (the black foam that I use for kneepads has one smooth side, and the other has open cell structure) It is best to add enough coats, letting them almost dry to a non-tacky state before adding the next) to fill the voids in order to get the best possible - and longest lasting - adhesion. Starting with clean surfaces also helps. Regards, Erik Sprenne *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Consider the context when deciding what glue to use. Will the object to be glued be under any stress? Will it be wet most of the time? I've used contact cement (Weldwood) to attach neoprene sheets to the underside of my deck (for knee support/protection) with excellent result over two seasons or so. Contact cement is less effective, long-term, in areas that are constantly wet. For example, I have a foam seat which is attached to the boat with wide Velcro strips. I attached the strips to the boat and seat with contact cement, but found that these attachments began to loosen after a month or so. Since then, I've used marine-grade adhesives for this application, and with better results. OTOH, when I attached my electric pumps to the bulkheads in Joan's boat and mine, I used epoxy glue to attach the pump mounts to small minicell pads (shaped to align the pumps flat to the floor), and to attach the pads to the bulkheads. These attachments have held so far (1/2 season), even though I have kicked my pump many times while entering the boat (klutz!). bv *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I had problems with contact cement for the minicell footrests I made for my Nordkapp and went with 3M marine adhesive. It's been in for a year or two with no problems. cya *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Bob Denton wrote: > > I had problems with contact cement for the minicell footrests I made for my > Nordkapp and went with 3M marine adhesive. Which contact cement was it and what were the problems? -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
From: Erik Sprenne <sprenne_at_netnitco.net> Subject: Re: minicell glue (from Paddlewise) >Your experience with the Velcro makes me curious >as to where the point of failure was? Was it between the contact cement >and the boat, or between the contact cement and the Velcro? Erik, I hope you don't mind my responding on-list to your off-list question. I think it's a useful question. In every case, the point of failure was between the cement and the Velcro. I had to work a bit to get the glue off the boat in order to re-glue the Velcro. Similarly, the Velcro-to-seat attachment failed at the Velcro, not at the foam seat. Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Bob Volin wrote: > [snip] In every case, the point of failure was > between the cement and the Velcro. I had to work a bit to get the glue off > the boat in order to re-glue the Velcro. Similarly, the Velcro-to-seat > attachment failed at the Velcro, not at the foam seat. What contact cement did you use? I have glued Velcro to minicell and to the epoxy-coated wooden surface of my stitch-and-glue and used it successfully for over three years. I've also contact-cemented Velcro to Hypalon, and used it for over a year with no failures. I used the solvent-based version of Weldwood Contact Cement (not the water-based version, which others say is inferior). I am very puzzled why you experienced a failure, unless it is the cement you used, or some other variable not mentioned -- surface preparation, for example. Nylon fabric (the usual backing for Velcro) is notoriously resistant to contact adhesives. I sand it well with 80 grit and then clean it with lacquer thinner before contact cementing. -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dave, I used the solvent-based version of Weldwood Contact Cement, but it never occurred to me to prepare the nylon backing as you describe here. I'll do that next time, and thanks. Bob >What contact cement did you use? I have glued Velcro to minicell and to the >epoxy-coated wooden surface of my stitch-and-glue and used it successfully for >over three years. I've also contact-cemented Velcro to Hypalon, and used it >for over a year with no failures. > >I used the solvent-based version of Weldwood Contact Cement (not the >water-based version, which others say is inferior). > >I am very puzzled why you experienced a failure, unless it is the cement you >used, or some other variable not mentioned -- surface preparation, for >example. Nylon fabric (the usual backing for Velcro) is notoriously resistant >to contact adhesives. I sand it well with 80 grit and then clean it with >lacquer thinner before contact cementing. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Contact cement has a point in time where it makes it's best bond: real tacky but no slimy pull-off. This point in time will vary if dissimilar surfaces have different drying characteristics, so many times it is best to seal the surface of ea material with one or two coats of contact cement before appling the bonding coat. This will equalize the drying rates and provide a better bond. Mike, who worked in a thong factory in Santa Barbara gluing soles with contact cement ...and carpenters and carpeters are sometimes hurt by the fumes as it kills blood cells... red I think. From: "Bob Volin" <bobvolin_at_bestweb.net> Dave, I used the solvent-based version of Weldwood Contact Cement, but it never occurred to me to prepare the nylon backing as you describe here. I'll do that next time, and thanks. Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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