Sid's right -- I'm wrong. The long line on the Keel Hauler Pro is 43 feet. He's also right that it's good gear. Used it many times, mostly in practice, a few times for real. Easy to work with and very durable. (Usual disclaimer). *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>> If you need to reduce bulk get rope of a smaller diameter. I think too much of the cord and bungee used in kayaking is much too thick and bulky. It is isn't as if one is rock climbing and has to deal with the extreme load forces of gravity in a fall. Surpisingly small diameter rope will do in kayaking. The same with carabiners used around kayaks. Paddlers tend to get them with rated load capacities more in line with rock climbing than with what one actually needs on the water. >> This was brought home to me when I was purchasing parts for a home-made towing system. I was trying to choose between a light duty cam cleat with a capacity of a few hundred pounds and another one with a capacity of several hundred pounds when it occurred to me that a force of several hundred pounds would either (a) rip the cam cleat off the deck or (b) create such a drag that I wouldn't be able go anywhere! I chose the light duty cleat. Chuck Holst *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Salamander Paddle Gear makes the Keel Hauler Pro: 43 foot long line and 15 foot short line. Good gear! www.salamanderpaddlegear.com sid *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
OK, "simple" question. Why can't the tow rope have a sliding adjuster on it like they put on tent guy ropes? That way you could adjust the length anywhere from 50 feet down to 25 and only have one rope. Is something escaping me here? Mike -- Paddling along through fog so thick that only one's thoughts are visible, your reverie is abruptly shattered by the ancient cry of a great blue heron as she lifts uncertainly from the brilliant blue of a mussel-shell beach witnessed only by the brooding, wet spruce....your passage home seems as much back through time as it does through space. Mark H Hunt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 01:13 PM 12/10/99 -0500, Michael R Noyes wrote: >OK, "simple" question. Why can't the tow rope have a sliding adjuster >on it like they put on tent guy ropes? That way you could adjust the >length anywhere from 50 feet down to 25 and only have one rope. Is >something escaping me here? > >Mike > >-- > Paddling along through fog so thick that only one's thoughts are >visible, your reverie is abruptly shattered by the ancient cry of a >great >blue heron as she lifts uncertainly from the brilliant blue of a >mussel-shell beach witnessed only by the brooding, wet spruce....your >passage home seems as much back through time as it does through space. >Mark H Hunt > Why don't you daisy chain the rope like them there construction guys do with there extention cords. Stop by any construction site and they should be able to tell you how. PS. if you are a woman and don't want to get "you know the LOOKS" or whistled at send a guy in to find out how, you might have to give him directions how to get there or he will get lost. Dana (constructin worker or destruction worker some times.) *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Think I've lost the sense of this thread, but, if the original question centered on fine tuning of the length of the long tow line --- down from the stock 50 foot or whatever its length ---, one easy way is to crochet knot it down to 30 feet; if you're going to have to tow in larger swells and want to maintain more separation, just pull out the last knot --- where you run it all the way through --- and you've instantly got a whole lot of line! (Just don't ask me how to explain a crochet knot in email text --- or in those little pictures that everyone else is so good at doing!) Jack Martin *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
JCMARTIN43_at_aol.com wrote: > > Think I've lost the sense of this thread, but, if the original question centered on fine tuning of the length of the long tow line --- down from the stock 50 f > > Jack Martin > Hi Jack, and all, BTW: my software cut the message, not me. I'll take a stab at showing how you do it. It is also called chaining a rope. The "easy" way to learn, is to get a length of cord/rope about 10/20' long. Stand on one end, and at an easy working hight to you, twist the rope ONE turn, so as to make a loop. Now, with your left hand sticking through that loop, use your right hand to bring the rope that you arn't standing on up(like you were going to strangle your left hand). Now grab the rope with your left hand(the one sticking through the loop)and pull it through the loop. You now are holding a loop that you just pulled through a loop. If you are with me so far, you just continue pulling a small loop through the next loop, and so on. You can make it tight or loose. James, wondering why I tried this! :-) *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
James Lofton wrote: > > The "easy" way to learn, is to get a length of cord/rope about 10/20' > long. Stand on one end, and at an easy working hight to you, twist the > rope ONE turn, so as to make a loop. > Now, with your left hand sticking through that loop, use your right hand > to bring the rope that you arn't standing on up(like you were going to > strangle your left hand). > Now grab the rope with your left hand(the one sticking through the > loop)and pull it through the loop. > You now are holding a loop that you just pulled through a loop. > > If you are with me so far, you just continue pulling a small loop through > the next loop, and so on. Excellent instructions. Now, how do you tie off the end so you can pull with it? Steve *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 01:13 PM 12/10/99 -0500, Mike wrote: >OK, "simple" question. Why can't the tow rope have a sliding adjuster >on it like they put on tent guy ropes? That way you could adjust the >length anywhere from 50 feet down to 25 and only have one rope. Is >something escaping me here? That was precisely what I was trying to communicate to the blond-infatuated Lotus rep at the PT symposium. I believe Kokatat has a 50 foot tow line that has a flat plastic "spool" much like for use with a kite. The advantage with the Kokatat tow system is that it is easy to "reel" in the excess length, with cold fingers or bulky gloves, clip it securely at the required length, and not have the excess dangling in the water (compared to tying-off the excess with a knot). On the crossing, when we occasionally rafted up for rehydration and mayday attempts, any excess line was an absolute liability, entwining itself around rudders, blades and paddle leashes. Given the high winds on open water, extracting oneself was rather excrutiating while breaking up the raft. With the extra length, the towee is also left without forward directional stability for just that little bit longer before the longer length of line engages and provides forward momentum to combat the broach-inducing seas. If I'm being anal here about the sublte differences, well, I'm so be it: the little things can be very important in a stress environment. At the beginning, a 50 foot length was fine for the first hour or two of the Storm Island tow. Andrew needed his sense of freedom (read: dignity) while still allowing for some directional stability when he lost his rudder controls an hour into the crossing. As the hours ticked by and Andrew became progressively exhausted and hypothermic, we could have benefited from a shorter tow-line length in order to stay in closer contact. Seas were wildly erratic with a full SE gale blowing into a Westerly bump with a 2 to 3 knot current causing somewhat riverlike conditions under this malestrom at the surface. I didn't need a long tow length in the steeply compressed seas. A short secondary tow line of 10 or 15 feet, as brought up in a couple of posts on this thred, would have been too short in our situation. Anyway, Andrew did his best, and I admire him for that, stroking forward even when all he wanted to do was close his eyes and leave this planet for somewhere peaceful and warm. Dave, the other paddler couldn't help with the tow much, as he had a different length of tow line and kind of tow rope, and was fighting with a flooding hull (split seam). I did some investigation into tow ropes after the incident, as I plan on doing an article on towing for SK Magazine. I checked with my local retailer and authorized Lotus dealer, to see if Lotus had any other towing line arrangements that I might be able to up-grade to. I was told that support from Lotus in Western Canada was pathetic, deliveries never arrived, and the store didn't even get a new catalog. Perhaps all the Lotus employees are to busy looking at blonds on the internet or something. Harsh words, I know, but given the amount of advertising they do, I am disappointed with the company. (you will never see feedback like *this* in a paddling publication!) Thanks Mike for your suggestion and sticking to the thread. BC'in Ya Doug Lloyd *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Doug Lloyd wrote: > > At the beginning, a 50 foot length was fine for the first hour or two of > the Storm Island tow. ... As the hours ticked by and Andrew > became progressively exhausted and hypothermic, we could have benefited > from a shorter tow-line length in order to stay in closer contact. ... > A short secondary tow line of 10 or 15 feet, as brought up > in a couple of posts on this thred, would have been too short in our > situation. > How about a 25 foot length? Unclip from the towee's bow, run the rope though the toggle loop (or through a biner on the loop) and bring it back to the tower. That's tow-er, not tall thin building. If that's a little too short, tie a figure-of-eight on a bight 10 feet behind the tow-er and clip to that. I can't take credit for any of this, a friend of mine was doing these rope tricks with my tow-line while I was pulling a beginner upstream against the tide. Steve *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Doug Lloyd wrote: > > I was told that > support from Lotus in Western Canada was pathetic, deliveries never > arrived, and the store didn't even get a new catalog. Perhaps all the Lotus > employees are to busy looking at blonds on the internet or something. Harsh > words, I know, but given the amount of advertising they do, I am > disappointed with the company. I seem to remember reading in r.b.p that Lotus was bought out by a bigger company and there were fears that the product would suffer. Maybe we should get The North Face to make pfds. Then all the kids hangin out at the mall would wear them. :-) Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
It hadn't occurred to me before, but if your tow line was snubbed by a cam cleat on your deck, like mine is, and did not have any knots in it, you could adjust the length by pulling the excess line through the cam cleat. This way you could go shorter than 25 feet, if you wished. The down side is that the excess would probably have to trail in the water. Also, if you had to release the line in an emergency, it could possibly snarl and jam in the cam cleat's fairlead. I keep my tow line chained until I need the extra length. To keep the chain from unraveling, a bungie hook fastened to the line holds the last loop. Some rigs that I have seen use a stainless steel snap hook for that purpose. Chuck Holst, -----Original Message----- From: Michael R Noyes [mailto:mnoyes_at_gsinet.net] OK, "simple" question. Why can't the tow rope have a sliding adjuster on it like they put on tent guy ropes? That way you could adjust the length anywhere from 50 feet down to 25 and only have one rope. Is something escaping me here? Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > I keep my tow line chained until I need the extra length. To keep the > chain from unraveling, a bungie hook fastened to the line holds the last > loop. Some rigs that I have seen use a stainless steel snap hook for > that purpose. This sounds like a good addition to the belt. Do you think one of those figure 8 things they use on flagpoles would be an alternative? Couple of wraps may do it. -- : : Gabriel L Romeu : http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily journal : http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > I think too >much of the cord and bungee used in kayaking is much too thick and >bulky. It is isn't as if one is rock climbing and has to deal with the >extreme load forces of gravity in a fall. Surpisingly small diameter >rope will do in kayaking. > True, things such as Prusik cord are extremely strong but still in narrow diameters. IOW strength is not necessarily a function of thickness. These ropes are thick for utility. It's cold now.... it is much easier for a waterlogged and cold paddler to grasp a thick rope than a thin one. Secondly, I think there are more forces at work in wildly moving water, e.g. at a surf line than you may think. A thin line can become very uncomfortable to hold onto, and may even seriously lacerate your hand. --From another question regarding this.... Why not use a Prusik sling and a carabiner to control the length of towrope payed out? JP *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Joe Pylka wrote: > > > > > I think too > >much of the cord and bungee used in kayaking is much too thick and > >bulky. It is isn't as if one is rock climbing and has to deal with the > >extreme load forces of gravity in a fall. Surpisingly small diameter > >rope will do in kayaking. > > True, things such as Prusik cord are extremely strong but still in > narrow diameters. IOW strength is not necessarily a function of thickness. > These ropes are thick for utility. It's cold now.... it is much easier for > a waterlogged and cold paddler to grasp a thick rope than a thin one. > Secondly, I think there are more forces at work in wildly moving water, e.g. > at a surf line than you may think. A thin line can become very > uncomfortable to hold onto, and may even seriously lacerate your hand. > --From another question regarding this.... Why not use a Prusik sling > and a carabiner to control the length of towrope payed out? > JP Another rationale for a larger rope is that it won't require as large a float for the clip attatchment, assuming of course that you are using a floating rope. floating and yellow were the first requirements for me. -- : : Gabriel L Romeu : http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily journal : http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Joe Pylka wrote: > > Secondly, I think there are more forces at work in wildly moving water, e.g. > at a surf line than you may think. A thin line can become very > uncomfortable to hold onto, and may even seriously lacerate your hand. This is important - the main reason I'd never want to use light line. You never know when you'll have to grab and pull by hand. > --From another question regarding this.... Why not use a Prusik sling > and a carabiner to control the length of towrope payed out? This could be a good workable idea... You'd have to safely stow the excess line so that it wouldn't float away and could be release easily to extend the line if conditions change. The only thing I'd prefer is a system that would allow me to increase the length under tension. Carabiners and prussiks won't let me do that. The crochet technique (properly called a "chain sinnet") would work, but I haven't thought of a knot to finish the chain with. If the last loop in the chain sinnet is tight, a biner or even a stick would do. Don't forget, if you want to release the sinnet from the tower's end you've got to start the chain from the throw bag end. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Chuck wrote; I keep my tow line chained until I need the extra length. To keep the >chain from unraveling, a bungie hook fastened to the line holds the last >loop. Some rigs that I have seen use a stainless steel snap hook for >that purpose. Thanks for the idea of the bungie hook. I use the stainless steel carabiner and always thought it was a bit heavy. I know it's only a few ounces but they do add up. One of those construction workers that knows how to tie a extension cord correctly, Arthur *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I'm coming in late on this but some might be interested in NSW tow ropes, especially after Ralph Diaz's comments on over-engineering. We have a club standard of fifteen metres - makes double tows easy. We make them using small stainless steel carabiners from marine shops and fifteen metres of venetian blind cord of a few mm diameter from a hardwre store. None have broken yet that I know of , and this stuff has lots of stretch for give. We sew up bags (of various designs) out of rip stop nylon or shade cloth and attach them to deck fittings or towing points, often using a loop of spectra which goes around the deck fitting. They are made so the line just reels out once towing. the whole thing is small (mine is maybe 10 x 15 cm) and sits almost flat on the deck. prior to this I used bulky water ski rope with shock cord threaded into it and with floats etc that I made. But these small ones seems to work fine. BTW I saw a nice attachment point on a victorian paddlers boat the other day. He'd got some webbing - maybe climbers tape - and had attached a strip of it to his deck with 2 or three SS screws. I didn't see but he may have had grommets in the webbing - I imagine you'd need something. The tape was doubled over and had a 'd' ring in the end for attaching the tow rope. nick > *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> > We make them using small stainless steel carabiners from marine shops and fifteen metres of > venetian blind cord of a few mm diameter from a hardwre store. None have broken yet that I know > of , and this stuff has lots of stretch for give. any problem with tangling Nick? -- : : Gabriel L Romeu : http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily journal : http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Forgot to forward to entire list ---------------------- Forwarded by Sidney Stone/AMS/AMSINC on 12/11/99 09:39 PM --------------------------- Sidney Stone 12/11/99 09:36 PM To: James Lofton <n5yyx_at_etsc.net> cc: Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] tow rope length (Document link: Sidney Stone) If I understand the "tieing off" description below, you need to "untie" the rope in order to deploy the tow line. This could present a problem. You should be able to deploy the tow line without the need to untie anything. You need to be able to grab the carabiner, or hook, with one hand, come up to the person needing towing and hook up to the yak without the need to fuss with untieing a line/rope. The daisy chain technique works very well, but instead of tieing off the line after the last daisy chain, you simpy stuff the remaining line into its "pouch". When you need the tow line, you hook up and the line unravels as the line is brought tight. As long as we are on this thread, here are some further thoughts on tow lines and towing. When selecting the hardware used to attach the line to the boat being towed, keep in mind that you may need to attach the rope while wearing some type of glove. You need a carabiner large enough to manipulate while wearing gloves. Hooking the tow line to the towee boat. If the towee kayak does not have deck lines, then you need to hook onto the toggle. If decklines are available, you want to hook onto to deck line. This can be done in two ways. First, you can simply attach to the deck line using the carabiner. Or, you can run the tow line under the deck line and then hook it back onto itselt. This permits the towee some ability to detach themselves from the tow. You also need to be careful not to run the tow line under both deck lines - if the toggle holding the deck lines break, then the tow line will slip off. Happy towing, sid (Embedded image moved James Lofton <n5yyx_at_etsc.net> to file: 12/10/99 04:54 PM pic01664.pcx) To: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net cc: (bcc: Sidney Stone/AMS/AMSINC) Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] tow rope length Steve Cramer wrote: > > > the next loop, and so on. > > Excellent instructions. Now, how do you tie off the end so you can pull > with it? > > Steve You must have cheated and already knew how! :-) Easy, when ever you want to stop chaining, and want it to "hold"(not unravel), just pull the the "free" rope end all the way through. This is the way to lock the end of the rope, after chaining the whole length. Just put the last piece (the tip) through the last loop and pull the end. Now it can't unravel, and all you have to do to use it is pull the end back out of the loop and pull. To get it to unravel again, pull the free end back out. James *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ *************************************************************************** [demime 0.92b removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of pic01664.pcx] *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Sidney_Stone_at_amsinc.com wrote: > > As long as we are on this thread, here are some further thoughts on tow lines > and towing. When selecting the hardware used to attach the line to the boat > being towed, keep in mind that you may need to attach the rope while wearing > some type of glove. You need a carabiner large enough to manipulate while > wearing gloves. > > Hooking the tow line to the towee boat. If the towee kayak does not have deck > lines, then you need to hook onto the toggle. If decklines are available, you > want to hook onto to deck line. This can be done in two ways. First, you can > simply attach to the deck line using the carabiner. Or, you can run the tow line > under the deck line and then hook it back onto itselt. This permits the towee > some ability to detach themselves from the tow. You also need to be careful not > to run the tow line under both deck lines - if the toggle holding the deck lines > break, then the tow line will slip off. If you want to rig your kayak for being towed, add a jam cleat on the foredeck just ahead of the cockpit. Use a line that runs through the forward padeye that holds the toggle (if you have one - or consider adding a padeye) and secure the line to the cleat. The tower can then hook into that line and you, the towee, have the ability to release it quickly in the event of a problem. I prefer the vertical jam cleats to the horizontal type, as they seem to snag things less often. I also use the type that have a bar over the line end (like a built-in fairlead) to keep the line from pulling itself out. This cleat can also be used in an alternative to a tow if you're dealing with a sick paddler. Go bow to bow, overlapping so that the ill paddler can drape themselves over your deck near the bow and feel stable. (See the photo in Sea Kayaker in "The Rafted Tow", bottom of page 17, Oct 1998) Use the cleat, line and a small biner to attach to their deck lines at their bow. You will be able to see them, talk to them and monitor them at the same time as being able to paddle. The cleated line will keep their kayak in line with yours and it won't impede your progress too much. Since it's cleated in, you can release it quickly. This technique won't work well in really rough seas, since the two kayaks will bash into each other a lot. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> any problem with tangling Nick? > -- > : : > Gabriel L Romeu : I haven't, and I'm not aware of others having them. Nicholas Gill School of Geography and Oceanography University of NSW Australian Defence Force Academy Canberra ACT 2600 Ph. 02 6268 8317 Mob. 041 7659440 Fax 02 6268 8313 Email: nicholas.gill_at_adfa.edu.au ---------- > From: Gabriel L Romeu <romeug_at_erols.com> > To: Nick Gill <nicholas.gill_at_adfa.edu.au> > Cc: paddlewise <PaddleWise_at_lists.intelenet.net> > Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] tow rope length > Date: Monday, 13 December 1999 1:40 > > > > > We make them using small stainless steel carabiners from marine shops and fifteen metres of > > venetian blind cord of a few mm diameter from a hardwre store. None have broken yet that I know > > of , and this stuff has lots of stretch for give. > > http://studiofurniture.com furniture from the workshop : > http://members.xoom.com/gabrielR life as a tourist, daily > journal : > http://users.aol.com/romeugp paintings, photographs, etchings, objects > *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
>> Chuck wrote; I keep my tow line chained until I need the extra length. To keep the >chain from unraveling, a bungie hook fastened to the line holds the last >loop. Some rigs that I have seen use a stainless steel snap hook for >that purpose. Thanks for the idea of the bungie hook. I use the stainless steel carabiner and always thought it was a bit heavy. I know it's only a few ounces but they do add up. One of those construction workers that knows how to tie a extension cord correctly, Arthur >> Great River Outfitters sells stainless steel snap hooks that are lighter than carabiners. See http://www.erols.com/rapids/GRO/. The bungie hook, though so far it has worked for me in fresh water, might corrode quickly in salt water. Chuck Holst *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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